A different side of Brazil: four proper seasons
Southern Brazil catches many visitors off guard if they only know the country's tropical coastline: this region has four clearly defined seasons, and in winter, between June and August, frost, and occasionally even a dusting of white on rooftops, is not unusual in hillside towns like Gramado and Canela. That blend of European-style climate, German and Italian colonial architecture and spectacular coastal scenery makes the South a complete itinerary, equally suited to beach lovers and to travellers who prefer mountains, wine and hearty food.
Florianopolis: the island of forty beaches
Known affectionately as Floripa, Santa Catarina Island packs in more than forty beaches, each with its own personality: Joaquina draws surfers and sandboarders to its giant dunes, Campeche impresses with Caribbean-toned water, the buzzing Lagoa da Conceicao concentrates bars, restaurants and nightlife, while the island's north end, anchored by Jurere, appeals to families seeking a quieter pace. Food lovers should not skip Ribeirao da Ilha, in the south, Brazil's largest oyster-producing hub, where seafront restaurants serve the mollusc fresh straight from the nearby marine farms.
Serra Gaucha: alpine climate, chocolate and award-winning wine
A few hours from Porto Alegre, Gramado and Canela recreate an almost alpine climate, complete with half-timbered architecture, traditional chocolate shops and the Caracol Waterfall, which plunges more than 130 metres through native forest. Between October and January, the town becomes the stage for Natal Luz, one of the largest Christmas festivals in the world, with millions of lights and shows that draw visitors from across the continent. Nearby, in Bento Goncalves, the Vale dos Vinhedos has established itself as the heart of Brazilian wine tourism: century-old wineries produce full-bodied reds and, above all, internationally awarded sparkling wines, with tastings available straight in the cellars, set to the distinctive accent of the region's Italian settler heritage.
Curitiba: a world reference in urban planning
Curitiba is frequently cited as a model of sustainable urbanism, with a pioneering public transport system and an outstanding network of parks. The Botanical Garden, with its greenhouse that has become an icon of the city, and the Oscar Niemeyer Museum, affectionately nicknamed the Eye Museum for its futuristic structure designed by the architect himself, are must-see stops, alongside Tangua Park, carved out of a former quarry. From the Parana state capital, the Serra Verde Express train descends the mountain range to Morretes along one of Brazil's most scenic rail routes, crossing the Atlantic Forest, historic viaducts and tunnels, with a stop along the way to try barreado, a local dish of beef slow-cooked for hours in a clay pot.
Blumenau: German heritage and the world's second-largest Oktoberfest
Founded by German immigrants in the nineteenth century, Blumenau preserves half-timbered townhouses, craft breweries and culinary traditions drawn straight from Bavaria. Every October the city hosts Oktoberfest Blumenau, considered the second-largest beer festival in the world, second only to the original in Munich, with parades, traditional music, folk costumes and, of course, plenty of locally brewed craft beer.
Planning your trip: when to go and how to get around
The main air gateways are Florianopolis (FLN), Porto Alegre (POA) or Curitiba (CWB), depending on where the itinerary begins. Exploring the Serra Gaucha is far easier with a rental car, since the distances between wineries and mountain towns are best covered with the freedom of your own schedule. Beach season runs from December to March, while Gramado and the wine region work well year-round, with a special highlight during winter and the Christmas season. Unlike most of Brazil, the South can see temperatures close to zero degrees Celsius in July, so warm coats and cold-weather clothing are essential during that period.